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John Long: Violating Sacrosanct Trad Ethics Was, Ironically, Liberating

Photo by: Climbing

Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981  in Las Vegas,  climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song. I wasn’t the first “famous” climber whose future looked like a black hole, so I kept switching venues rather than instruments. Everything...

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